When one door closes, another opens, as the saying goes.
Even if the door opens a pizza oven.
Those saddened by the impending closure of Stone Hearth Pizza may be comforted to know that a new pizza joint, Brooksy’s Pizza, will take its place.
Brooksy’s, already with a flagship location in Andover, was featured on the TV show “The Phantom Gourmet.” Belmont will be Brooksy’s second location when it opens this fall. In addition to offering classic pies, the menu will feature specialty pizzas such as Korean BBQ, topped with braised short rib.
“Great pizza starts with the dough,” co-owner Brooks Rice said, noting that making and “controlling” one’s own dough can be a challenge, especially when dealing with New England’s temperamental climate.
“Monday it was 48 degrees (Fahrenheit); now it’s 80. The dough recipe, the hydration, everything is affected by weather,” he said. “When you control your own dough – it’s taken me 15 years to learn — you’re always evolving.”
He said creating a superb pizza is a combination of the recipe – “the quality of ingredients is key” – how you manage the dough, and the cooking environment of the oven. In the industry since 2009, Rice started out making coal-fired pizzas, which are cooked using very high heat, and possess a signature smoky flavor and crispy crusts.
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Rice spent time working on Neapolitan pizza in wood-fired ovens. He noticed this crust, made with Neapolitan flour, had more flavor, so he found a way to combine the two, using Neapolitan flour, and cooking on high heat so the crust is crisp, but not too thin.
While this process is challenging – from stretching the dough to maneuvering the pizzas while they’re cooking, keeping them in constant motion so they bake evenly and don’t burn – the reward is high.
“When you see the look on customers’ faces, you see you’re providing something different,” he said, adding that time management is crucial to the process. “It’s more in-depth, which makes it challenging and fun.”
He said it’s also “a little captivating” to observe the process because of the gestures of workers tending the pizzas.
“If you watch the action of the people who do the method that I do…there’s a little bit of a show there that makes it fun.”
Rice is also carrying over a signature dessert from his flagship location: a skillet cookie with dark chocolate chunks and vanilla ice cream.
“The kids come in and order that as their meal,” he said with a laugh, referring to the number of patrons he currently gets from the local Andover schools.
Kevin Foley, manager for Locatelli Properties and landlord of the building, said he’s thrilled to welcome the Brooksy’s team.
“We’re always looking for tenants who add energy and value to the community,” Foley said. “Brooksy’s fits that perfectly—they care about quality, they care about people, and they’re going to be a great addition to the Center.”
Rice is looking forward to welcoming the Belmont community into his restaurant and is hoping Brooksy’s can help attract some of the motorists passing through Belmont Center into the restaurant and surrounding shops, as well.
“The great thing about pizza is that it’s for everyone,” he said. “Everyone has their own likes or dislikes. It’s communal, too. You can feed your family, go on a date, or just have it for yourself.”
The pizzeria will offer dine-in, take-out and delivery options, and will be open for both lunch and dinner. Belmont residents can learn more about the restaurant via its website, follow its progress on social media (@Brooksys_Andover on Instagram), or get an early taste of what’s to come by visiting its Andover location.
Brooksy’s will be located at 57 Leonard St. and can be found online at brooksyspizza.com.